People who visit downtown Brattleboro Vermont find a small classic Vermont city with a twist. Located on the Connecticut River at the southern end of the Green Mountains it offers spectacular views of the mountains and the river flowing along right next to Main Street. The twist, Brattleboro is an exciting and vital small art city. It has the flavor of a college town without the college. Like many other 19th century industrial cities in New England it has been given new life by the spirit of the creative people who have chosen to live and work in the peacefulness and physical splendor of southern Vermont. Donna Simons who with her husband Larry owns A Candle in the Night, one of the oldest downtown businesses says, “It’s always been great to be in Brattleboro; it’s an expression of the people who live here and love it, Brattleboro is timeless, the kids on the street look like I did 30 years ago.” This group of people bring music, theater, crafts and fine arts to life in the city. In 2007 Mother Earth News chose Brattleboro as one of the eight great places to live. American Style magazine has named it one of the top 25 small art towns.
Brattleboro has held a place as a retail and entertainment center for nearly two centuries. In addition to its proximity to the river it was also on a stage coach line and benefited from the trade of lumber, and farm products.
The Estey Organ Company which was founded in 1846 provided an early cultural connection. It employed more than 500 people and marketed its reed organs as far away as New Zealand. Brattleboro prospered and truly became the organ capital of America. At about the same time the city entered the tourist business when a water cure drew wealthy visitors from around the world that came to bathe in the cold waters of Whetstone Brook. Tourist business continues today and aids in keeping downtown lively. Most of the retail and restaurant activity takes place along Main Street and the blocks just off Main. There are many businesses offering hand made items, some with large inventories of American made items.
One of the oldest crafts related businesses, Vermont Artisan Designs has been in town for 35 years. This is a classic American craft store representing 350 American craftspeople and in particular a large collection of products produced by the many craftspeople living in Vermont. Unique jewelry, blown glass, pottery, wrought iron, pewter, turned wood, jewelry boxes, clocks, and chimes fill the first floor. Meanwhile on the second floor in Gallery 2 there is a large display of paintings and sculpture. Suzy and Greg Worden own this and 2 other downtown businesses. When asked why Brattleboro, Greg quickly answered, “I came to visit and the first time I walked down Main Street I felt at home.”
Across from Vermont Artisan Designs is Gallery in the Woods. This three floor gallery features American crafts on the ground level, the second floor features a mix of local art with folk objects from other cultures. The lower level is a more formal gallery for changing exhibitions.
Just up the street is A Candle in the Night another downtown old timer. This is a source of the finest middle-eastern carpets. The store has evolved over the years with textiles always being the thread that held the place together. Recently they have added fine furniture from India resulting in a full scale home store. Scattered through the spaces are galleries featuring art by American artists, most working with assemblage.
At the other end of Main Street is the Blue Moose an interesting multi faceted shop. Owners, Ken Flutie and Paul Faust came to Brattleboro from Naples, FL. They felt it was the place to be and now say “it’s awesome.” In Blue Moose they have created a blend of fine American crafts with high design, especially kitchen goods, from around the world. Their goal is to put together a collection of products that are colorful, bright and artful.
Brattleboro Museum and Art Center is a quick drive or short walk south on Main from Blue Moose. The museum is housed in Union Station, a stop on the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad from 1849 to 1966. Slated for demolition after the interstate highway system put the railroad out of business it was rescued by a group of residents and opened to the public in 1972. Today the building is filled year round with changing exhibits of work by regional and internationally acclaimed artists. In addition there is a very full calendar of activities including a monthly artist and friend’s potluck, an opportunity for creative folks to interact in a casual setting. The Art Center offers classes for children and adults throughout the year.
It should be noted that there is no shortage of restaurants and cafes. They are stuffed in among the retail shops all through downtown. There are coffee houses with delicious sweets, cafes, some with views of the river, that serve great lunches,. For those lingering into the evening there are full service restaurants for both vegetarians and carnivores.
Brattleboro is the home of a highly successful Gallery Walk. Now in the 15th year Gallery Walks take place on the first Friday of each month. Hundreds of people spend two hours moving from venue to venue guided by an extensive program. The ads in this program pay many of the expenses of Gallery walk. It is common for 35 to 50 galleries, artists, and arts organizations to open their doors to the public to display new work or hold performances. In warmer weather there are street performers adding to the festive celebratory atmosphere.
Whether you are in Brattleboro for a few hours or a few days the unique quality of this art city will no doubt get under your skin and a return visit will be in order.
